December 8, 2009
Posted: 1705 GMT

(CNN) – Santa Marta, like so many shanty towns in Rio de Janeiro, seems to defy gravity.

A view of the recently pacified Santa Marta.
A view of the recently pacified Santa Marta.

To get to our destination, London cameraman Todd Baxter and I rode a one-car funicular past naked cement and brick homes clinging to the hillside.

Then we cut across the slum, a maze of cramped doorways and micro-entrepreneurs offering everything from haircuts to sacks of cement.

With a lot of breaks to catch our breath ...

Finally we found it: a huge cinder-block wall going up around the entire shanty town.

The wall was the subject of our story. According to officials it’s an “ecobarrier” built to protect the surrounding rainforest, but a lot of people we talked to were offended.

They felt they were being caged in and saw it as an attempt to further separate the crime-ridden slums from the affluent condos on the beaches below.

But what struck me was just how safe Santa Marta was.

When I lived in Rio eight years earlier it was unthinkable to enter any favela without a police escort.

At night you could hear shoot-outs between rival drug gangs and nearby neighborhoods complained of “lost bullets” that tore through their homes while they slept.

That’s changed with Rio’s “pacification” plan. Santa Marta is one of the favelas that’s been occupied by police. They built a permanent headquarters in the community and have set up checkpoints where gangs used to sell drugs.

We actually saw very few police when we hiked along the winding paths, but the sense of security was palpable.

We were invited into a number of homes.

An elderly man called Jiuzel showed us his toy car collection before we huffed and puffed our way up his near-horizontal staircase to the roof for one of the most amazing views of the city.

A woman, Elian Lopez, offered us coffee while she pulled out her daughter’s laptop and showed us her recently acquired credit card.

We even met a well-dressed tour guide on the funicular who was headed up to Santa Marta in search of a house to buy.

Not everything has changed though. Raw sewage still runs through many of the alleys and residents still complain they're marginalized by the rest of the “Marvelous City,” and pointed to the wall as proof.

But it was uplifting to see how some areas of Rio have come in the last eight years.

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Joseph   December 8th, 2009 2148 ET

I feel in two minds about Rio getting the Olympics. I think that all the redevelopment may remove its charm, the people will lose their innocence and it will not solve any of Rio's problems. They have already spoilt Copacabana beach with ugly and expensive glass/steel structures replacing the charming old wooden beach huts and getting rid of the iconic HELP disco. All for an event which will last just two weeks and leave a lot of "never to be used again" facilities. And then there's Rudolf Guliani arriving to "clean up the town," as if their wasn't enough violence already. Politicians just love their grand projects.

Geoffrey Nomeh   December 8th, 2009 2208 ET

nice work and research. keep it up!

Rosaly   December 8th, 2009 2226 ET

It feels good hearing from a foreigner who had been to Rio before, that, even if there's much to be improved still, at least those who live in the shanty towns are feeling safer, and that even the journalist was. Keep up with the good work, Cariocas!!!

Rodrigo Lopes   December 8th, 2009 2247 ET

I hope one day all the Rio de Janeiro is like Santa Marta.

Toddynho   December 8th, 2009 2255 ET

My question is what about Santa Marta allowed the police to establish a headquarters in the favela? There must have been a unique set of circumstances or assistance from the neighborhood association to allow for regular police presence.

When I lived in Rio, I found that most residents of favelas were more concerned about police presence than those of the drug traffickers. The traffickers kept a type of justice, along with providing public services. While these benefits came at the end of an automatic weapon and at the cost of many lives, the Government would not have provided them at all. Only when politicians need block voting in an election do they come through with promised public services for these impoverished neighborhoods.

I would like to see the crime rate and amount of drug trafficking prior to the police headquarters. An attempt to something similar in Rocinha would be nearly impossible. Until we properly understand the situation in Santa Marta, the Brazilian government will not be able to "pacify" the favelas.

Vareas   December 9th, 2009 1010 ET

This is the only way out of the mess previous governments left us, Rio citizens. This is hope , people deserve to live in decent areas and if you let anyone build anything anywhere we will have more slums and more sewage and more despair. Government has to step in to help and protect not only nature but people first. I do not think that people are allowed to build wherever they choose in California or other Us State, there are regulations to follow. The wall in the slum is one way to help them from themselves. In another town São Paulo, a family that lives on a slum just lost 4 children due to excess mud and rain putting their slum house down. How many more children need to die because of lack of goverment action? Better offend some and defend most.

Rodrigo Lopes   December 9th, 2009 1120 ET

Thank you for starting the discussion on the walls. I hope that a solution of soft power is used in the future.

hopeful   December 9th, 2009 1219 ET

If this system can fix the favella problem, great, hopefully they can cookie cutter the idea...good luck

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