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December 8, 2009
Posted: 1705 GMT
(CNN) – Santa Marta, like so many shanty towns in Rio de Janeiro, seems to defy gravity.
A view of the recently pacified Santa Marta.
To get to our destination, London cameraman Todd Baxter and I rode a one-car funicular past naked cement and brick homes clinging to the hillside. Then we cut across the slum, a maze of cramped doorways and micro-entrepreneurs offering everything from haircuts to sacks of cement. With a lot of breaks to catch our breath ... Finally we found it: a huge cinder-block wall going up around the entire shanty town. The wall was the subject of our story. According to officials it’s an “ecobarrier” built to protect the surrounding rainforest, but a lot of people we talked to were offended. They felt they were being caged in and saw it as an attempt to further separate the crime-ridden slums from the affluent condos on the beaches below. But what struck me was just how safe Santa Marta was. When I lived in Rio eight years earlier it was unthinkable to enter any favela without a police escort. At night you could hear shoot-outs between rival drug gangs and nearby neighborhoods complained of “lost bullets” that tore through their homes while they slept. That’s changed with Rio’s “pacification” plan. Santa Marta is one of the favelas that’s been occupied by police. They built a permanent headquarters in the community and have set up checkpoints where gangs used to sell drugs. We actually saw very few police when we hiked along the winding paths, but the sense of security was palpable. We were invited into a number of homes. An elderly man called Jiuzel showed us his toy car collection before we huffed and puffed our way up his near-horizontal staircase to the roof for one of the most amazing views of the city. A woman, Elian Lopez, offered us coffee while she pulled out her daughter’s laptop and showed us her recently acquired credit card. We even met a well-dressed tour guide on the funicular who was headed up to Santa Marta in search of a house to buy. Not everything has changed though. Raw sewage still runs through many of the alleys and residents still complain they're marginalized by the rest of the “Marvelous City,” and pointed to the wall as proof. But it was uplifting to see how some areas of Rio have come in the last eight years. Posted by: CNN Correspondent, Shasta Darlington |
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