April 14, 2009
Posted: 1719 GMT

MUMBAI, India - I was there watching the horror and feeling helpless. As I rattled on with the few details authorities would give us I stood, ducked and sometimes crouched next to my colleagues from all over the world as they did the same.

Children play at the hotel pool which left an mark on CNN’s Sara Sidner.
Children play at the hotel pool which left an mark on CNN’s Sara Sidner.

The scene was sheer madness unfolding before our eyes and through the camera's lens.

I was posted outside the Taj Hotel and Tower in Mumbai when terror rained down on India's financial capital for days last November.

For the 72 hours I was there, I slept exactly three, the same goes for many of my CNN colleagues working beside me or at other scenes.

There were four active scenes for at least two days. I happened to be posted at the one that ended last in a blaze of fire, bullets and grenade blasts.

Friends and co-workers watching on their television screens told me later it looked like a movie. But a movie ends in two hours. This went on for three days.

It looked like and felt like hell from the outside. On the inside it was hell for the dozens of workers and guests still alive but trapped as the dead lay where they were gunned down.

Today I am back at the scene for the first time since the attacks. I made myself stand in the same spot where I reported from and again turned to look at the majestic building.

I didn't want to go in at first. I was afraid of what I might feel. But I didn't want to remember it the way I first laid eyes on it. So I started walking towards the lobby of the 106-year-old building.

On the outside, the heritage part of the hotel still has boards covering some of the windows. The ones I watched burst with flames five months ago.

I had to pass white barricades that now lace the once open breezeway. There are three layers of security including an X-ray machine for every bag each guest brings with them.

Once inside you wouldn't know at first glance what happened here. The lobby is spotless.

But walk a dozen steps towards a glass enclosed area with a waterfall and you see a tree, a large marble plaque, and a sobering message. It has the names of the 31 people who died during those terrible four nights and three days.

Many of the public spaces have been restored. We walked farther in to the immense staircase that looks like something out of a fairytale. Not a thing out of place. Immaculate and almost too much for the eye to take in.

But as you climbed to the top there was another reminder. White planks of wood blocked two large windows that once looked out on to the ocean.

Then it was off to the poolside. I got one of those chills down my spine as I walked out between the chairs. It's because of that image in my head.

The image from the front page of a newspaper the morning after the attacks started. A man who was likely enjoying his drink poolside had been gunned down. He died there. Click. That picture won't leave my head.

But then you hear the noise of happiness. Children are splashing in the pool and adults are chatting and enjoying their lives.

It's trite but true; life goes on. Honestly, sometimes I forget to enjoy mine. What a fool I am.

The crew and I are staying at the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower for a couple of nights. We're here to cover the first day of the trial of the lone surviving suspect in the Mumbai attacks.

I picked the Taj as our hotel on purpose, I guess I needed to see a bit of normalcy here after what I witnessed from the outside.

I'm staying in the tower that is fully up and running. It had minimal damage during the attack. But next door in the old world rooms of the tower's older sister there is still a lot of work to do.

Of the 565 total rooms in the two buildings only 268 can be occupied. All I can say right now is, I am glad to be one of the occupants.

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Filed under: India


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Maggie Suter   April 14th, 2009 2343 GMT

What a truly touching story. I cannot imagine the terror that unfolded there that night or the emotions felt; I can only ever comment based on the coverage I saw but I know enough to understand that it has to change. There can't be a next time. The tourists, the people of Mumbai, and the citizens of the world deserve more from us. They need our help- and really, we can't afford not to answer their call. Thanks for the story; your compassion for the victims and your courage to go back after all the trauma, all the tragedy, will prove the attitude of a new era that will hopefully carry us into an age of brother helping brother, no matter the culture or relgion. Our global neighbors depend on it.

SamD   April 15th, 2009 255 GMT

Sara,

I have never been to Taj and did see the unfortunate incident on TV just like most others. From the moment I started reading and 10 minutes further till finished reading...I felt as I was walking with you in that building while you were narrating the whole incident, as i read i felt the same chill in spine when you mentioned it...very touching and realistic. You are very correct when you said that we forget to enjoy our time while we have it, untill stirred and shaken.

Thank you for sharing it ...your story has a human touch.
Peace for the world citizens who lost their precious lives and their loved ones who lost someone for no fault of theirs.

Bless You !!!

AC Smith   April 15th, 2009 408 GMT

Sara,

I like to think that I am old, smart, experienced and perceptive enough to know a little about reportage and air talent.

And, in my considered opinion, you are scary good. So good that you probably don't understand yet how good you are. No way you could have known when you were in Oakland. The people you worked for were clueless.

You're just beginning to grow into yourself now. Your work from the scene during the attacks was stand out. This post is flat courageous. It's a privilege having the opportunity to follow your work and development.

Cheers.

EMEM JOHNSON   April 15th, 2009 2128 GMT

Sara, what an incredible experience! Congratulations on overcoming your fears tonot only go back to the Taj Mahal, but spend a couple of nights there. The first time I heard of the Taj Mahal was when Princess Diana visited India. I am a Nigerian and it is sickening to see on cable tv all the disasters from Somali pirates to child murderers in the U.S! Why would anyone arm himself and walk into a hotel and start shooting innocent people. The lone survivor should not be jailed. He should be cut into tiny little pieces.

Elizabeth   April 16th, 2009 1715 GMT

Sara, I remember watching you reporting in Mumbai last November and you really were the best reporter there. This is a touching article. Best of luck reporting on the trial!

Carol Mackoff   April 16th, 2009 1913 GMT

Sara,

You forgot to mention the role you played in helping me and my family make sensible decisions while we were trapped inside the Taj Hotel during the terrorist attack. Because of you and Jennifer Deaton, your colleague, we had contact with the outside world. You told us when the parts of the hotel were on fire so that we could put wet towels at the base of the door to our room. You assured us that the police and Indian Army commandos knew where to find us once they quelled the attack. You kept in contact with our children in Chicago and D.C., helping them remain calm as their parents hunkered down through grenade explosions that shook the hotel. Over the 3 days, we became deeply attached to you and appreciative of your concern. Your sleep deprivation bordered on heroic as you kept contact with us. You are my hero.

Gautam   April 17th, 2009 856 GMT

Sara,
I applaud your courage in coming back to Mumbai! I'd also like to take this opportunity to invite people from all over the world to experience "The city that never sleeps" for themselves.
The terrorists want to paralyse locals and tourists alike and prevent us from enjoying the beauty of Mumbai.
But we're unstoppabe!

Do visit one of the world's most exciting cities without fear! There's something here for everybody.

Tausif Bashir   April 17th, 2009 905 GMT

Sara,
Very courageous to go back to the Taj. I live in Mumbai and met Nic Robertson the day the terrorist attacks ended on the 29th of November. For some reason I kept going back again anf and again in the days that followed. The smell of gunpowder, burning building and bodies was very prominent near the Taj as the siege went on and I would sit there for hours and think about what went wrong. What inspires Muslims not different than me, my age, to decide, that the Taj or the Nariman House or the Oberoi is where am going to die and to the extent that they booby trap their bodies so cause maximum damage. I can speak for the majority of people of Mumbai that we were in extreme shock for a period of about a month but what truly saddens me is the fact that the people of India and Mumbai have already forgotten the event that evoked such emotion and did not turn it into something positive for the country.

JYOTIRMAY BUCH   May 5th, 2009 657 GMT

Dear Sara,
All of us must applaud the courage you have shown going back to the arena. I think this establishes the fact that NO terror act will ever be successful and at the end of it all only peace and peace loving people will rule.
Truly a touching story and very inspiring too....I believe what you have shared will give so may others the courage to stand tall against any such fears.
Thanks fo sharing...

GD   May 6th, 2009 1628 GMT

Sara,
Kudos to you. I have been to the Taj, in fact I lived there for six months while doing business in India. It is an amazing place and my memories will be far different from yours. My young children ask me a great deal about my time in India, especially after those horrible attacks. I am thankful you are so eloquent to paint a picture of what happened during those terrible days but also what is happening now. Keep up the great work!

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