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March 2, 2009
Posted: 1959 GMT
ISTANBUL, Turkey – Come winter, foreigners living in Turkey face an annual ritual: renewing their residency permits. For some reason, it always seems to be raining this time of year, as Istanbul's colorful population of expatriates migrate to the "Emniyet Mudurlugu," the main police headquarters on Istanbul's Vatan Boulevard. They file through the turnstiles and metal detectors at the entrance to the fortress-like concrete building, clutching bundles of priceless documents, including passports, bank statements, birth certificates and three, yes three, identical passport-sized photos. It's best to get an early start at the Emniyet Mudurlugu (it's pronounced Moo-der-loo). I arrived last week at 8:45 a.m. and was rewarded with a ticket that placed me - 145th in line. Istanbul has long been described as one of the world's great crossroads. If so, then the Emniyet Mudurlugu is a concrete, four-story Tower of Babel. Inside, an Arab woman in a green veil with her five-year-old son sat next to a Chinese businessman tapping away on his laptop, while nearby a pretty young Slavic woman from Kyrgyzstan chattered on her cell phone in Turkish. Upon arrival, I was pleasantly surprised to see an old acquaintance from Australia named Jason, who has lived in Turkey for more then a decade. With a rueful smile, he pointed out that he left his house at 6:30 in the morning ... and still ended up 54th in line. In years gone by, the Emniyet Mudurlugu was much more chaotic. There was no automated number system then. You had to come with elbows sharpened, ready for battle. Applicants crowded around the plexi-glass windows, shoving their passports at chain-smoking Turkish police officers who calmly observed the jostling hordes while sipping glasses of brown tea. But as Turkey has evolved over the last decade, so has the country's bureaucracy. The annual visit to the Emniyet Mudurlugu is a fascinating place to watch the changes. In accordance with European Union regulations, smoking is now banned in the building. Smokers risk a 63 Turkish lira fine (around 40 dollars). And for the first time this year, the foreign hordes were offered a waiting room. Applicants sat on banks of chairs, upholstered with purple Pleather, watching a flat screen TV playing the animated movie "Cars" dubbed into Turkish. In one corner, yellow globules slowly rose and fell in a strategically-placed Lava Lamp. Unfortunately, the mellow mood-lighting couldn't soften the screams of crying children, the babble of cartoon cars, and the drill of a jack-hammer hard at work in an office one floor up. My Australian friend Jason pointed out that, unlike five years ago, there were also far fewer of the provocatively dressed Russian-speaking women who used to fill out application forms by putting 'dancer' or 'animator' in the job description. I was saddened, however, to learn that Jason has become one of the latest casualties of the global economic depression. He told me he was recently laid off from his investment banking job ... after the recent drop in the Turkish stock market. Jason's story sounded ominously similar to conversations I overheard just a few weeks ago on commuter trains around New York and in resort communities in Florida. Jason didn't appear too worried though. He had clearly adopted the coping methods many Turks have expertly developed for dealing with the political and economic crises that periodically batter this country. He was moving to a cheaper apartment. And, with an eye for profit that would make the cleverest Turkish carpet seller proud, Jason made me a tempting offer: "Would you like to buy my place in line?" I'll be curious to see what the Emniyet Mudurlugu looks like next year. Posted by: CNN Correspondent, Ivan Watson
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