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October 24, 2008
Posted: 353 GMT
HIMACHAL PRADESH, India - I'm not sure we'll make it. The one-lane, winding mountain road is riddled with landslides every few hundred feet. I am not afraid of heights but being smothered by mud and rocks is another matter.
Kundar Singh Pundir, left, and his brother Amar, right, share Indira Devi, centre, as their wife.
It is rainy season and driving up 6,000 feet to a remote village in north India's Himachal Pradesh state isn't a well-timed idea. We do it, anyway; news deadlines and type-A personalities have a way of driving you forward even when the situation is a bit precarious. We are not alone. We are sharing the pot-holed roads with huge trucks filled with rocks from a nearby mine, buses filled with people and herds of goats that wander across the road. After two hours of sickeningly bumpy, slippery terrain we stop. We are almost there. Yes! We have to walk the rest of the way. We grab about 40 pounds worth of gear and drag it through the streets. There is a member of a non-governmental organization with us who insists on carrying some of it; we accept. Usually my photographer insists on shouldering the load, but today his back is saved the 20-minute walk into the village. The village of Dugana is located in a remote spot. It is precariously positioned on the side of a very steep hill range. There is no room for bicycles and even less for cars to carry people and things. These are two-person, not two-car lanes. We finally make it. The view from here is stunningly beautiful. You can almost touch the clouds drifting by. The hills stretch out in front of you like something out of a travel guide. As an outsider the homes seem peculiar and quaint at the same time; I have to get in one. They look like doll houses on stilts and are built with tiny windows just big enough for a human head. The villagers pop their heads out as we walk by. We are strangers and an unusual sight. I can't help but stare back. I'm as interested in them as they are with me. Now to why we made the eight-hour drive from Delhi: this village is still practising a very old tradition and we wanted do a story on it. It won't be easy. No matter where we travel in India we draw crowds. It is not us, it is the camera. There is no such thing as a private interview in a village setting. In this case the subject matter is of a very private nature. Still we can't catch a break. People peer through the windows or circle around the camera to hear and see what is going on. We begin while the crowd stares and listens. Our subject? Polyandry: the practice of one woman marrying several husbands. It is custom here to marry several brothers (fraternal polyandry). A woman is married to the eldest brother and if he has one or more younger brothers they too can join the family as a second, third or even fourth husband. The family we visit is made up of two brothers, one wife and their three children. We sit the two brothers down first. Eventually I have to ask an intrusive question. Everybody's thinking it but saying it out loud with an audience is a bit uncomfortable. Out it comes: "How do the three of you manage sex?" The teenage boys gathered nearby giggle. I pretend I don't hear them, hoping our subjects answer without feeling embarrassed. Turns out the teenage boys and I are the only ones embarrassed. The brothers, who share a wife, answer matter-of-factly: they work out a schedule. A simple answer to a prying question, I move on. Their wife is busy and becoming increasingly annoyed because she has a lot of work to do. She works very, very hard. It's her job to cut grass in the fields, milk the cow, cook the meals and clean up. She begins her day at 5 a.m. Everything is done by hand. There is no modern stove or electrical equipment to make life easier, but she obliges us and we thank her for her time. We had to bring her inside their stilted house and sit against the door to keep the men out. It was the only way we could get her to talk about her life with two husbands. The weather is changing rapidly. If it rains too hard we won't get down the hillside in time and the roads could get washed away. We begin our trek back down.
Posted by: CNN Correspondent, Sara Sidner |
Hear from CNN reporters across the globe. "In the Field" is a unique blog that will let you share the thoughts and observations of CNN's award-winning international journalists from their far-flung bureaus or on assignment. Whether it's from conflict zone, a summit gathering, or the path least traveled, "In the Field" gives you a personal, front row seat to CNN's global newsgathering team. Recent Posts
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