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June 21, 2008
Posted: 856 GMT
KABUL, Afghanistan – Kabul is greener than I last saw it. I first glimpsed the bright emeralds as the plane lurched towards the sprawling airport. The normally dry, dirt brown fields fresher, it felt, than I'd ever seen.Outside the terminal the tree branches bending in the gathering afternoon wind shone, vibrant as a newly hand waxed car. Not a cloud in the sky. I couldn't help but feel good. Dirt, dust, confusion: that's the Kabul I left six months ago. Now the city feels clean. On our way to the hotel a cyclist sails close by, looks in our creaky minivan, smiles and speeds away. Can this really be Kabul? Across the road, billowing in the breeze, a woman struggling against the tugging folds of her bright blue burka pulls a child's hand to keep him moving. I try not to be shocked by the garment, the wearing of which was enforced under Taliban rule. There is no mistaking this is the Afghan capital, but it does feel different. I want to put my finger on it. Is it that the cheap stores are brighter, the pot-holed roads a fraction less bumpy, the police, not younger just more numerous and better uniformed? Is there an air of optimism it didn't have before? Maybe. How quickly these feelings fleeted. Barely four hours in our hotel and we discover the Taliban have issued a direct threat against it, starting that day for the next 48 hours. Such is the credible weight of their propaganda these days that we quickly move out. Rumors we quickly discover are rife. One of the latest doing the rounds is that Westerners are now targets for kidnappers. For money or political zeal, whatever wind was in my sails when I blew in to town is rapidly emptying. Was the threat real? We don't know. The 48 hours are up and the hotel hasn't blown up yet. In the south Taliban tactics are worrying locals. This is a people with a better arsenal of war memories than almost any other. Thirty years of conflict have dulled expectations but sharpened reflexes. The massive Taliban jailbreak last weekend has put everyone on edge. Taliban attacks are becoming, bigger, bolder, more complex, more deadly and more innovative. In a new first, a suicide bomber jumped from a building onto the roof of a passing coalition patrol. Studying the form of the local bad guys isn't a pastime anymore - it's becoming a mater of survival. When NATO and Afghan soldiers finished chasing the Taliban out of the Aranghadab valley this week they told famers they could go back to their villages. Those who did went on foot. They know better than to think the Taliban have left without laying mines. President Hamid Karzai gets kudos for booting the Taliban out so quickly. But many Taliban ran away and everyone in the Aranghadab knows they'll be back to fight another day. The talk in Kabul is that Karzai's popularity is flagging and that he needs the boost. He wants to win presidential elections next year. Up here they call him Mayor of Kabul because, they say, that's about as far as his power goes. His enemies number far more than the Taliban. I've always loved Kabul; now it's greener that's easier. But as the words of the old proverb were meant to imply, so life should now be better. Quite simply it's not. Fear is growing. Posted by: CNN Senior International Correspondent, Nic Robertson |
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