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May 27, 2008
Posted: 1028 GMT
DJIBOUTI – As you might imagine, getting on a U.S.-guided missile destroyer off the Somali coast isn't the easiest thing to do. The USS Shoup is a tactical battleship and its plans are as fluid as these waters are dangerous. The Shoup can travel at 30 knots and changes plans on an hourly basis.
CNN's David McKenzie aboard the USS Shoup.
But after months of pushing to get on a destroyer, the e-mail came from Bahrain and we scrambled to get to Djibouti, a tiny country wedged between Somalia and Eritrea. We flew from Nairobi, through Ethiopia, and landed in the deathly heat of the Horn of Africa. After staying a night at the sprawling Camp Lemonier naval base we flew out in an aging and agile Allouette helicopter. A guided missile destroyer holds over 300 sailors, but to see it on the backdrop the ocean it at first looks impossibly small. The ship is a labyrinth of cramped ladders, flashing lights and rooms you can't enter. But in the perfect weather of the Gulf of Aden it was a dream for the cameraman. It is a mix of the archaic and modern: pollywogs and Aegis weapons systems; whistle calls and boarding assault teams. There is no denying that the open ocean has a romance sometimes lacking in other the other armed forces. For every corner of the ship there is an ancient naval term, for every event a spot of tradition, a touch of class. But we wanted to see if we could do lives from the sea. Simple, perhaps, but at CNN we have a device that needs to point at a satellite and stay in that exact direction. Try doing that on a battleship that is changing course every few minutes and is in the middle of pre-planned exercises. Three minutes before live. We are set up but the Shoup is traveling near 30 knots. We have to hold down the equipment or it will blow off the edge. Two minutes before live. The boat slows down and we breath a sigh of relief - we have a signal. One minute before live. A French Mirage fighter jet appears out of the blue and banks across the destroyer cracking right overhead. The bridge shouts commands and aggressively maneuvers to the starboard. Forty seconds before live, the signal drops, we are pointing exactly in the wrong direction, 180 degrees from starting point. We dive across, flip the satellite modem, drop the signal, put it back up just in time. There is the power and aggression of the USS Shoup and the practicality and grace of the FS Marne, a refueling Durance class vessel that we hop across from the Shoup. It is everything that the modern destroyer isn't: roomy and classic cabins, tasteful officers quarters. It is a four-star hotel stuck on top of a gas station. Dining with the Admiral of the CTF-150 - the multinational force that polices these waters - is like stepping back in time for this landlubber. The French Navy takes their hospitality and their food seriously. The moon dips under the ink sea as we feed a story way past midnight on the deck of the Marne, and it's hard not to marvel at a world so far removed from the one anchored on land. Posted by: CNN Correspondent, David McKenzie
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