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May 7, 2008
Posted: 1013 GMT
MOUNT EVEREST PRESS CENTER, Tibet Autonomous Region, China - After an eventful week, with all that travel at high altitude and hectic but futile efforts to find out what is happening on Everest, I finally felt tired. Between cans of Red Bull and cups of instant coffee, I did a few live shots for CNN International on Friday morning and in the afternoon I agreed to visit a 1,300-year-old Rongbu De Hermitage Monastery during a three-hour organized tour by the officials from Beijing Olympic Committee. The monastery is built on a small flat area in a slope about a hundred feet above the bottom of the valley. It took me 15 minutes to hike up that little hill with my camera. I was exhausted and regretted going. Once on the top though, the exhaustion melted away. There was an immense sense of spirituality at this place and I was almost afraid to take pictures. I sat on a sun-heated stone listening to the sound of prayer flags madly flickering in the wind and finally gathered the courage and energy to film. The weekend was miserable. When I stumbled out of our hut on Saturday morning I discovered to my horror and disbelief that fresh snow was falling. The magnificent view of Everest disappeared behind a frightening wall of dark gray clouds. I didn't want to imagine what it was like on the mountain. I was busy with live shots and with trying to keep myself warm, which isn't easy here since there is no heating around. I just put on as many clothes as I could and kept drinking hot water. My problems were nothing compared to two other journalists from our group. A cameraman got a serious and extremely painful tooth infection and after an agonizing night ("It's been years since I cried") was put on painkillers and strong antibiotics. My room-mate was struggling with high blood pressure and low blood oxygen levels causing debilitating fatigue. The cameraman since recovered, but our German colleague was evacuated back to Beijing. The rest of the group was holding on, struggling with ever-present cold and increasingly with boredom. There is not much to do - apart from waiting for the weather to improve. On Saturday evening, Everest cleared for a few minutes. The giant has changed dramatically since we last saw him 24 hours ago. Even in the orange light of setting sun one could see the fresh snow cover blanketing almost the entire mountain. However beautiful, it creates serious problems for the climbers. Walking and climbing in deep, fresh snow is exhausting at high altitude. Even more serious, fresh snow causes dangerous avalanches. Records show that Himalayan avalanches killed hundreds in a century of climbing here. There is even more snow on the ground on Sunday morning. Expedition spokesman Zhang Zhijian shyly admitted during the regular morning press conference that the climbing on the mountain had stalled due to bad weather. He had no information about the weather forecast for future days. Although it became sunny in the afternoon, Everest remained hidden behind clouds and in the evening, the snowfall returned back to the valley and began covering the Media Center again. The temperature was dropping not only outside. Long faces of the trip organizers and of some of the journalists during Sunday dinner spoke volumes about the weather concerns. One person who remained optimistic was a Chinese experienced climber and an official adviser to the expedition, Liu Jia. "I would not even consider it a storm," he told me that day in a filmed interview. "I do not think it will affect the climbing activity too much and for too long." he added. After filming we chatted a little bit longer when he said: "According to my experience, if there is a lot of snow, there will be a big break after and it can create good opportunity to climb to the top." The next day we woke up to a gorgeous, bright sunny morning. Posted by: Journalist, Tomas Etzler
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