|
May 2, 2008
Posted: 317 GMT
MOUNT EVEREST PRESS CENTER, Tibet Autonomous Region, China — Perhaps the most difficult thing here at the Media Center at Mount Everest base camp is to climb out of a warm sleeping bag into the freezing air every morning. What helps me is a thought of a cup of instant coffee, which I prepare from hot water provided to us in a Thermos. After filming a sunrise, and breakfast, I continue filming our life in a camp. The idea is to produce some sort of video chronicle of the whole trip. Most of the journalists are busy with their work but a few managed to go for an arranged supervised visit to a monastery, the highest in the world. We are not allowed to go alone. At 11 a.m. there is a regular press briefing. Trying to get any meaningful information is like pulling teeth. Despite heavy questioning from the Western media, once again, there is no word about the whereabouts of the torch. Security measures are one thing but a complete information blackout is quite another. It is not a Chinese military exercise; it is an event the world deserves to know about. While I understand and appreciate the concern of Chinese authorities after the torch fiascos in London, Paris and San Francisco, I think that keeping the torch climb secret is counterproductive. I talked to quite a few people around the globe during the past few months about the issue of the torch coming up Qomolangma. And many of them, even those who do not agree with Chinese policies in Tibet, thought that the torch reaching the top of the world is a cool idea. The world is interested, the world is watching, and concealing the information just does not look good. Wednesday 2 p.m. The moment we are all waiting for. The organized trip to the base camp. We are packed aboard two buses and start climbing some 50 vertical meters on a 5-kilometer road to the camp. First we pass a security check manned by Chinese police armed with AK 47-type weapons. It’s hard to miss the hundreds of tents and trucks belonging to the Chinese border military as we approach the base camp. Finally we arrive at the wide open space which climbers unflatteringly refer to as a “gravel pit.” Usually it is dotted with hundreds of colorful tents from climbing and trekking expeditions around the world. This time there are dozens of green tents of the torch expedition, neatly organized into a small city, and, yes, more military tents. But most of the camp area is empty. We are greeted by Zhijian Zhang of the Chinese Mountaineering Association who lectures us on Everest’s history, adding that the Olympics and climbing strengthen friendship between nations. When I ask him why no other expeditions on the mountain have been allowed he smiles: “With regards to the fragile environment and because of the limited space capacity in the base camp, we were forced to close Qomolangma to other expeditions. We had no choice.” Then we finally hear word of the torch’s whereabouts. The chief of the base camp weather center tells us that the torch is at the advanced base camp at 6,400 meters (20,997 feet), awaiting better weather before being taken higher. We were in shock and awe. After days of blackout we are finally getting proper information. I immediately call CNN in Hong Kong: “We found the torch!” After that things get better and better. Next we are taken to a tent of the Chinese Space and Industry Agency which helped to develop the torch and is responsible for its maintenance. There are several torches being taken up the mountain as back-up and we are allowed to touch one. It took two years to engineer a torch with a special solid fuel which enables the flame to burn at high altitude with little oxygen. The Olympic flame will be carried in a couple of lanterns similar to those in which the flame is transported on the planes. When the climbers reach the summit the torch will be lit. The fuel lasts for 7-10 minutes and, weather permitting, the organizers hope that several will be lit and carried in the summit in a symbolic relay. If the team reaches the summit at dawn — as it often is the case on Everest — the pictures should be dramatic and spectacular. The temporary studios of China Central Television are the next stop on our base camp tour. The studios in cupola-style tents can also be used by foreign journalists for a hefty satellite fee of $2,000 per 10 minutes. But because of some logistical glitch it is almost impossible for us to reach the studios when we need to because we do not have the right permits to travel between the media center and the base camp. Nobody is happy: some of us cannot do our work properly and CCTV is losing a lot of money due to lost bookings. So, a good day. For the first time in six days we have something to report. We have concrete information and good pictures. Everybody is up late filing stories. The camp doctor is worried: “You were working very hard all afternoon at high altitude. You should rest now.” There is no time. Plus I feel great. I am finally finished at three in the morning. Although exhausted I cannot sleep. The strong freezing wind is hauling outside and the temperature in the hut is way below zero Celsius. I am used to sleeping bags but for some reason tonight I feel claustrophobic and short of breath. Only when I pull my arms out of the bag I feel better. But then I am freezing within moments. I prefer cold to the feeling of not being able to breath. Somehow I fall asleep. The mobile phone alarm wakes me up three hours later. I hope the water in the Thermos is still hot. Posted by: Journalist, Tomas Etzler
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||