|
April 27, 2008
Posted: 251 GMT
LAZI, Tibet Autonomous Region, China - Covering an Olympic torch rally as a journalist is a rare prospect at any given circumstance. Covering an Olympic torch being carried to the top of the world's highest mountain is a once in a lifetime, if not a once in history, opportunity. So when asked if I want to spend two weeks in rough conditions at the base camp of Mount Everest's north side, reporting on the event, I did not hesitate for a second. The journey to Mount Everest, which the Chinese call Qomolangma, started at the brand new Terminal 3 of the Beijing International Airport on Friday, April 25. The terminal was crowded even at 6 a.m. Travelers to Lhasa, including 11 international journalists covering the Beijing Olympic torch rally have to queue in a special security gate assigned for Tibet. During the 16 months I have been working in and extensively traveling through China, I do not recall a more thorough security check. Polite, occasionally smiling, but strict guards searched through every piece of carry-on luggage and equipment. Finally, two and a half hours after checking in we were on the plane. At Lhasa Airport, located about a 45-minute drive from the city, we were greeted by Mr. Shen Kaiyun, a director of the Tibetan autonomous region information office, and other officials. We were joined by 19 Chinese journalists, a number of minders and quickly boarded three buses. Our convoy, which also included a CCTV (China Central Television) truck in military colors carrying our luggage and several SUVs with officials, left not for Lhasa but for the second largest Tibetan city, Shigatse. It was not an entirely surprising move. Lhasa was an epicenter of last month's deadly riots and remains off limits to foreign journalists and tourists. This trip was purely designed for the coverage of the Olympic torch and its organizers stuck to its purpose. However, on Friday, April 25, China Daily - a government-run newspaper - reported that the first group of 15 tourists from mainland China was allowed into the city. Shigatse is some 300 km (186 miles) west of Lhasa. The road first runs along the Lhasa River. It is embellished by small hamlets with typical Tibetan two-story houses made of stone. Every house is decorated by Buddhist flags. The road later turns into a valley of Brahmaputra, one of the biggest Asian rivers which is swollen by melting snow from the high peaks of the Tibetan Plateau at this time of the year. The valley narrows and the river rushes deep under the roads carved into the steep slopes. During the rainy season, landslides often block the road. Even on this sunny April day, our bus is almost hit by a falling boulder. After 45 minutes of this spectacular drive, the valley widens into an arid plain. Here, one can see third-hand the uphill battle the Chinese government is fighting against desertification of many Tibetan areas. It is mostly caused by overgrazing. Enormous sand dunes cover mountains on both sides of the plain. Our bus drives through several large yellow dust clouds. Shigatse lies almost 3,900 meters (12,795 feet) above sea level. Although the journalists who just arrived from low-lying Beijing feel OK, there are concerns about the effect of the high altitude. The plan is to be in the Mount Everest base camp at the elevation of 5,150 meters (16,896 feet) within 48 hours and some consider it dangerous without the proper acclimatization. The organizers of the trip are initially reluctant to change the itinerary. After the delegation's Chinese doctor also raises his concerns about the rapid ascent, the minders conclude the evening: "We are happy to have you on this trip and we will consider your concerns." The altitude issues and related health concerns are again discussed the next morning on Saturday. After the intervention of Mr. Kaiyun, it is agreed that an extra day of acclimatization will be added to our journey to the base camp. The journey continues westward. First, we have to drive up to Tsuo-la, a pass 4,500 meters (14,763 feet) above sea level. The pass is covered by thousands of Buddhist flags attached to long strings. The whole scene resembles a giant spider web... with praying flags. As it has become a custom on every stop on this trip, the organizers have to call scattered filming and photographing journalists back to the buses. "Come down! Stop filming! The buses are leaving now." They struggle to overcome strong winds. The scenery is becoming familiar. Descent to a wide valley surrounded by brownish mountains with an occasional snow-covered peak behind them. Around sparse villages people work in their fields and tend to their herds of sheep and yaks. On almost all the houses in this valley there is a brand-new Chinese national flag flying next to the praying ones. "This is how local people celebrate the upcoming Olympics," explains one of the officials accompanying us on the bus. We have lunch in the She Chen hot springs recreational resort in Lazi county. Above the main entrance hangs a banner: "Green Olympics, Environmentally Balanced Qomolangma." It is a small facility comprised of one large building with a restaurant, and two covered swimming pools, and a few smaller buildings with small baths - accommodation quarters for the local Tibetan staff. The next stop is a treat. We are taken by surprise when our convoy turns from the pavement into a dirt road meandering through a dry wasteland. Soon we start a treacherous climb which proves to be too much for the larger buses carrying mostly the Chinese journalists. At the top of the climb, is the Tsan monastery. It is a small complex sitting on the steep slopes 4,400 meters (14,435 feet) above sea level. It was first established in the 11th century A.D. It consists of a main temple, burial pagodas and living quarters. The monastery treasures over 12,000 books. Local monks and their helpers treat us to dried mutton meat. The piousness of this place and the friendliness and generosity of its dwellers is humbling. On the way back we picked up our disappointed Chinese colleagues and soon after we are arriving at a small town in Lazi. After dinner, there is a performance of a Tibetan folklore dance. Then there is more work to do, review the pictures filmed today, file the stories, recharge batteries, prepare for tomorrow. With the exception of minor headaches, everybody is feeling well. And that is good news. The base camp of Mount Everest is only 180 km (111 miles) away. Editor's note: Tomas Etzler is a journalist heading to the Base Camp of Mount Everest to chronicle that leg of the Olympic torch relay. Posted by: Journalist, Tomas Etzler |
Hear from CNN reporters across the globe. "In the Field" is a unique blog that will let you share the thoughts and observations of CNN's award-winning international journalists from their far-flung bureaus or on assignment. Whether it's from conflict zone, a summit gathering, or the path least traveled, "In the Field" gives you a personal, front row seat to CNN's global newsgathering team. Recent Posts
From our Partners
Categories
Archive
|
Loading weather data ...