April 27, 2008
Posted: 251 GMT

LAZI, Tibet Autonomous Region, China - Covering an Olympic torch rally as a journalist is a rare prospect at any given circumstance. Covering an Olympic torch being carried to the top of the world's highest mountain is a once in a lifetime, if not a once in history, opportunity.

So when asked if I want to spend two weeks in rough conditions at the base camp of Mount Everest's north side, reporting on the event, I did not hesitate for a second.

The journey to Mount Everest, which the Chinese call Qomolangma, started at the brand new Terminal 3 of the Beijing International Airport on Friday, April 25. The terminal was crowded even at 6 a.m. Travelers to Lhasa, including 11 international journalists covering the Beijing Olympic torch rally have to queue in a special security gate assigned for Tibet.

During the 16 months I have been working in and extensively traveling through China, I do not recall a more thorough security check. Polite, occasionally smiling, but strict guards searched through every piece of carry-on luggage and equipment. Finally, two and a half hours after checking in we were on the plane.

At Lhasa Airport, located about a 45-minute drive from the city, we were greeted by Mr. Shen Kaiyun, a director of the Tibetan autonomous region information office, and other officials. We were joined by 19 Chinese journalists, a number of minders and quickly boarded three buses. Our convoy, which also included a CCTV (China Central Television) truck in military colors carrying our luggage and several SUVs with officials, left not for Lhasa but for the second largest Tibetan city, Shigatse.

It was not an entirely surprising move. Lhasa was an epicenter of last month's deadly riots and remains off limits to foreign journalists and tourists. This trip was purely designed for the coverage of the Olympic torch and its organizers stuck to its purpose.

However, on Friday, April 25, China Daily - a government-run newspaper - reported that the first group of 15 tourists from mainland China was allowed into the city.

Shigatse is some 300 km (186 miles) west of Lhasa. The road first runs along the Lhasa River. It is embellished by small hamlets with typical Tibetan two-story houses made of stone. Every house is decorated by Buddhist flags.

The road later turns into a valley of Brahmaputra, one of the biggest Asian rivers which is swollen by melting snow from the high peaks of the Tibetan Plateau at this time of the year. The valley narrows and the river rushes deep under the roads carved into the steep slopes. During the rainy season, landslides often block the road. Even on this sunny April day, our bus is almost hit by a falling boulder.

After 45 minutes of this spectacular drive, the valley widens into an arid plain. Here, one can see third-hand the uphill battle the Chinese government is fighting against desertification of many Tibetan areas. It is mostly caused by overgrazing. Enormous sand dunes cover mountains on both sides of the plain. Our bus drives through several large yellow dust clouds.

Shigatse lies almost 3,900 meters (12,795 feet) above sea level. Although the journalists who just arrived from low-lying Beijing feel OK, there are concerns about the effect of the high altitude. The plan is to be in the Mount Everest base camp at the elevation of 5,150 meters (16,896 feet) within 48 hours and some consider it dangerous without the proper acclimatization. The organizers of the trip are initially reluctant to change the itinerary. After the delegation's Chinese doctor also raises his concerns about the rapid ascent, the minders conclude the evening: "We are happy to have you on this trip and we will consider your concerns."

The altitude issues and related health concerns are again discussed the next morning on Saturday. After the intervention of Mr. Kaiyun, it is agreed that an extra day of acclimatization will be added to our journey to the base camp.

The journey continues westward. First, we have to drive up to Tsuo-la, a pass 4,500 meters (14,763 feet) above sea level. The pass is covered by thousands of Buddhist flags attached to long strings. The whole scene resembles a giant spider web... with praying flags. As it has become a custom on every stop on this trip, the organizers have to call scattered filming and photographing journalists back to the buses. "Come down! Stop filming! The buses are leaving now." They struggle to overcome strong winds.

The scenery is becoming familiar. Descent to a wide valley surrounded by brownish mountains with an occasional snow-covered peak behind them. Around sparse villages people work in their fields and tend to their herds of sheep and yaks. On almost all the houses in this valley there is a brand-new Chinese national flag flying next to the praying ones. "This is how local people celebrate the upcoming Olympics," explains one of the officials accompanying us on the bus.

We have lunch in the She Chen hot springs recreational resort in Lazi county. Above the main entrance hangs a banner: "Green Olympics, Environmentally Balanced Qomolangma." It is a small facility comprised of one large building with a restaurant, and two covered swimming pools, and a few smaller buildings with small baths - accommodation quarters for the local Tibetan staff.

The next stop is a treat. We are taken by surprise when our convoy turns from the pavement into a dirt road meandering through a dry wasteland. Soon we start a treacherous climb which proves to be too much for the larger buses carrying mostly the Chinese journalists.

At the top of the climb, is the Tsan monastery. It is a small complex sitting on the steep slopes 4,400 meters (14,435 feet) above sea level. It was first established in the 11th century A.D. It consists of a main temple, burial pagodas and living quarters. The monastery treasures over 12,000 books. Local monks and their helpers treat us to dried mutton meat.

The piousness of this place and the friendliness and generosity of its dwellers is humbling.

On the way back we picked up our disappointed Chinese colleagues and soon after we are arriving at a small town in Lazi. After dinner, there is a performance of a Tibetan folklore dance. Then there is more work to do, review the pictures filmed today, file the stories, recharge batteries, prepare for tomorrow.

With the exception of minor headaches, everybody is feeling well. And that is good news. The base camp of Mount Everest is only 180 km (111 miles) away.

Editor's note: Tomas Etzler is a journalist heading to the Base Camp of Mount Everest to chronicle that leg of the Olympic torch relay.

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Filed under: Olympics


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xyz   April 27th, 2008 739 GMT

A POEM FOR THE WEST

When We were called Sick man of Asia, We were called The Peril.
When We are billed to be the next Superpower, We are called The threat.

When We were closed our doors, You smuggled Drugs to Open Markets.
When We Embrace Freed Trade, You blame us for Taking away your jobs.
  
When We were falling apart, You marched in your troops and wanted your "fair share".
When We were putting the broken peices together again, "Free t¡bet" you screamed, "it was an invasion!"
( When Woodrow Wilson Couldn't give back Birth Place of Confucius back to Us,
But He did bought a ticket for the Famine Relief Ball for us.)
  
So, We Tried Communism, You hated us for being Communists
When We embrace Capitalism, You hate us for being Capitalist.
 
When We have a Billion People, you said we were destroying the planet.
When We are tried limited our numbers, you said It was human rights abuse.

When We were Poor, You think we are dogs.
When We Loan you cash, You blame us for your debts.
  
When We build our industries, You called us Polluters.
When we sell you goods, You blame us for global warming.
  
When We buy oil, You called that exploitation and Genocide.
When You fight for oil, You called that Liberation.
  
When We were lost in Chaos and rampage, You wanted Rules of Law for us.
When We uphold law and order against Violence, You called that Violating Human Rights.

When We were silent, You said you want us to have Free Speech.
When We were silent no more, You say we were Brainwashed-Xenophoics.
  
Why do you hate us so much? We asked.
"No," You Answered, "We don't hate You."
  
We don't Hate You either,
But Do you understand us?
  
"Of course We do," You said,
"We have AFP, CNN and BBCs..."
  
What do you really want from us?
Think Hard first, then Answer...
  
Because you only get so many chances,
Enough is Enough, Enough Hypocrisy for this one world.
  
We want One World, One Dream, And Peace On Earth.
- This Big Blue Earth is Big Enough for all of Us.

Henry Z   April 27th, 2008 1617 GMT

Why no report on US mainstream media about protests worldwide
against CNN and Cafferty?!

S.K. Cheung   April 27th, 2008 1752 GMT

Interesting article. For someone like me who's never been to Tibet, it gives a glimpse of the vastness and geographic diversity of the region. Nice to hear from an independent source that there appears to be some freedom of religion there. The other Beijing Olympics blog seems to have run its course; wonder if they'll migrate here next. I'm happy Western media are being allowed to cover the ascent. However, it is interesting to note that ascent of Mt. Everest on the Nepalese side beyond the base camp has been banned until the torch is gone, so as to prevent "protest".

Nepali Kancha   April 27th, 2008 1831 GMT

Nepal, till 1962 was the sole owner of Mt. Everst. Even China accepted this fact. So how come China suddenly is now the co-owner?

The answer rests on the greedy politics of Nepali Kings.

At the begining of 60s, the then Nepali King Mahendra overthrew the first democratically elected government and started his autocratic one-party dictatorship that lasted 30 years (till 1946). In return for China's political support for his regime, the king gave the Chinese the northern side of Mt. Everst.
Do anybody know whether Nepal can reclaim this land (i.e. the northern part of Mt. Everst)? What does international law tells about it?

Yipei Liu   April 27th, 2008 2049 GMT

Really glad to see a bias-free report on China. As a Chinese, I, like many of my fellow countrymen, acknowledge the problems that exist in China – human rights, degree of freedom, polution, etc. China, however, is moving foreward. Given that the Western world only abandoned colonialism some 40 years ago, and started recognising racial discrmination as soemthing morally incorrect around the same time, China should be allowed more time to make its own changes. Demonisation and isolation never breed desirable results; genuine help and embracement, on the other hand, do.

Nepali Kancha   April 28th, 2008 316 GMT

Well, I think I got a sense of your intention. If "moderating" means you are not going to let my statement to be publish then let me tell you that as an US IT graduate student I know how to bypass your censorship and expose your name throughout the cyberspace. Are you acting like this because you are scared of the Chinese who might take away the invitation?
However, if you want to authenticate the info I've provided, check your sources. Also, if you think that it doesn't relate to your story, then you are right; I want to use your forum. You can write a line to interlink them.
If you think it is not the right forum then I would like to tell you that Tibet lies north of Nepal and it never claimed Sovereignty over Mt. Everst. Even Mao and Chou an Lai accepted the fact that it belongs to Nepal when Nepal's first elected PM, Mr. BP Koirala visited China in the 60s. There are hundreds of sources to verify this story.

Good luck.

cheng   April 28th, 2008 359 GMT

As a chinese, i like tibet region very much and strongly respect their religion and thoughts. i am happy to see this article which is comparatively independent and less misled. Tibet is a part of China with longer history than the time of existence of US. I travelled in Tibet as tourist last year and was deeply impressed by its beautiful scenery, unique culture, devotional and peaceful religion, hospitality of local people, and fast development of economy and living condtions as well. I hope more westners could pay visits to Tibet Autonomous Region by their own when in peace to see the real life of tibetans. Don't just shout with prejudice and ignorance!

fearless   April 28th, 2008 602 GMT

I won't all surprised at all the West would pull out of the Game altogether and collectively in the last minute. After all they are good at the game of deciet. You should never turst them. they say one thing but do the other. China shouldn't be too concerned about that. There are enough outstanding atthletics and heads of states to attend the Games. It will be a great Olympic in Bejiin. I mean for example everything is historical first: the longest torch relay ever (it's made more remarkable after the Chinese people beat back and over come the West's consort efforts to disrupt it) the first time a torch is being
carried to Mt. Everest. There is nothing the West can do to stop it.
Who needs the West. Go home and sulk. Plot your next move
better. Bring it on. China is game.

D. Chen   April 29th, 2008 656 GMT

Based on Chinese officials, the recent unrest in Tibet was organized by people outside of China. Limiting accesses from outside visitors seem to the best way to stop the violence in Tibet because it works now. China becomes more isolated as the Olympic flame goes around the world. It is sad. I was born in China. But it is hard for me to get VISAs for my kids to go to China in this summer because they were born in US. When the media reported re-called Chinese-made-toys, no one cared how many percentages of those toys were designed in US. When you treat others like your enemies, they will become your enemies. When that day comes, my co-workers will ask me why you Chinese are so brutal. My high school friends will call me …

Claudine Ferland-Muirhead   April 29th, 2008 831 GMT

Thank you so much for your coverage – there is so little information about the Tibetan leg of the Olympic torch relay. I acknowledge your courage – this is not the easiest or most comfortable of trips! But, please do send some pictures!!!! All the best.

Matt Song   April 29th, 2008 859 GMT

Thanks for un-biased report, and
Send some pictures!

Pluyo   April 29th, 2008 1950 GMT

Finally. Thank you for this report. I would like to hear more from you, and of course pictures, please.

owen   April 30th, 2008 133 GMT

Chinese history includes two parts, first is before 1978,which is famous "open door policy", before that time China is a closed babarial country, no food and all electronicty products, of course no people know CNN or SBS, because they never see TV.

After 1978, till now , exectly 30 years past.......it's hard to find something NOT made in China, It's NOT hard to find China Town and chinese people, the key is developing economy and communicate with overseas, i run a travel agency in Australia, this summer ( my winter), i will go Peiking for Olymipic with my four children, we all Aus citizen, any people want join us i will give u a discount, from my city it is too easy to get chinese VISA, cheap and quick.

tsewang   May 4th, 2008 211 GMT

Hi CNN, See how you can contribute in making world more harmonised.

L.M. Roure   May 12th, 2008 1946 GMT

World News: Government aides in disasters
Myanmar disaster and their dead. Instead of throwing the dead into rivers guide the people to cremate theme with the debris at hand, facilitate small amounts of kerosene and matches or any other thing for the task .Distribute threw religious institutions along with pans to boil unsafe water in .
L.M.Roure

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