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April 12, 2008
Posted: 1201 GMT
KATHMANDU, Nepal - There is a strange contradiction in Himalayan politics. In the tiny country of Bhutan the king, Jigme Khesar Wangchuk, has recently enforced democracy on subjects who’d really prefer to keep things as they are, thank you very much. They are blessed with a benign monarch, who is adored and worshipped by his subjects. But the Oxford-educated, 27-year old King clearly realizes that absolute rule by a monarchy is fine when the ruler is a jolly nice fellow, but it has all the ingredients for a total disaster, should one of his descendants decide to abuse their power. He’s recently organized elections, where you guessed it - the monarchists won a thumping majority. Bhutan is about as remote and isolated as you can get. Television was only allowed here in 1999 and much of the country is still without electricity, roads or the internet. But it’s the only country I can think of where democracy is being imposed on the people, largely against their will. Contrast that then with neighboring Nepal, where King Gyanendra is about to lose his job. Here the election counting is still going on, amid growing allegations of fraud in some remote areas. So far the Maoists, until recently a guerrilla army that had been fighting a decade long insurgency, are in the lead. They are still classified as a terrorist organization by the United States, but it looks like they will become a major player in the new assembly that’s been elected to draw up a new constitution. And the first thing that assembly will do is to declare that Nepal is to become a republic, meaning King Gyanendra will presumably be packing his bags soon. King Gyanendra was suddenly thrust onto the throne after a terrible massacre when almost all of his other relatives were shot by the Crown Prince, who went berserk with a gun before killing himself in 2001. King Gyanendra was therefore the target of much unfair suspicion that he had somehow orchestrated the massacre to get his hands on the crown. It sounds like a Shakespearean plot - but then much of political life here has a slightly surreal air. Gyanendra further compounded that initial suspicion by declaring martial law in 2005, claiming the government wasn’t doing its job in thwarting the Maoist insurgency. It was only when hundreds of thousands of people took to the streets in violent protests two years ago that he backed down and the Maoists started capitalizing on his mistake. I was in Nepal in April 2006, dodging the flying bricks and remember the palpable feeling of anarchy in the thin mountain air. Now things seem more stable, and in some sense there is inevitability to events. It’s almost certain this king will be peacefully voted out of a job. The entire edifice of the Peacock throne will be dismantled and Gyanendra will be free to concentrate on his private business interests. So what to do? Well, perhaps the Royalists among you are crying: "How about letting the King of Bhutan skip over the border and see if he can make a better fist of it than Gyanendra? Swap the Raven Crown for the Peacock throne?" That’s sort of what happened in England during the 17th-century Glorious Revolution: a group of aristocrats got rid of the Catholic James II. They were infuriated by his autocracy and staged a coup, bringing in his protestant son-in-law, William of Orange from Holland, to become king instead. But that kind of throne swap would never work between Nepal and Bhutan. There’s been years of acrimony between the two countries over the status of 100,000 refugees stuck in camps in Nepal, who arrived from Bhutan. The Bhutanese won’t allow them to return, saying they’ve forfeited their right to citizenship. The idea of King Jigme Khesar Wangchuk coming over to replace Gyanendra is a non-runner. It seems nothing will preserve monarchy in Nepal: 240 years of history will end in a few weeks, leaving Bhutan as the only absolute monarchy in Asia.. for now. The 19th-century political writer Walter Bagehot once said of monarchy: “We must not let daylight in upon the magic." But daylight is streaming into the Himalayan palaces: the Maoists have pulled back the curtain in Nepal, but in Bhutan it's the King himself who's decided to break the spell. Posted by: CNN Bangkok correspondent, Dan Rivers
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